Aquarium Water Testing Kits

Normal pH The pH of water in the ocean is around 8.1. This is also the recommended pH of a marine aquarium, with levels slightly above or below this value considered acceptable. This happens as a result of the carbonate hardness value of sea water, which is about 125ppm. However, certain events such as biological filtration of a marine aquarium, tend to reduce the carbonate hardness value and therefore lower the pH. Also certain influences, such as carbon dioxide, can affect the reading of pH value.   Biological Filtration The assimilation of waste by bacteria in the filter of a marine aquarium is an acidifying process and in time will reduce the carbonate hardness value of the water. As this occurs, the pH value will fall. Carbonate hardness levels can be maintained with Aquasonic Carbonate Hardness Generator Powder. At a pH of 8.1 the carbonate hardness value should be 125ppm. If the carbonate hardness value of a marine aquarium is correct, yet pH values are not, the influence of carbon dioxide should be considered.   The Effects of CO2 For pH to read correctly, carbon dioxide must be in equilibrium with the atmosphere. Carbon dioxide is produced by fish, plants, corals and bacteria assimilating waste in the biological filter in the aquarium. Some trickle (mini-reef) filters can expel carbon dioxide so efficiently that the quantity of carbon dioxide is less than the atmosphere, so pH reads higher than it really is. Likewise, in an aquarium with substrate filtration, carbon dioxide has some difficulty escaping as it is produced by the biological filter and other life. Under these conditions, carbonic acid may be formed and pH will read lower.   Using pH to Advantage During the development of bacteria in a biological filter, ammonia and nitrate conditions ensure. Both are deadly to marine fish. The toxicity of ammonia and nitrite, however, is in direct relation to the pH value of the water in the system. By lowering the pH, the toxicity of these deadly conditions is minimised. To lessen the toxicity of nitrite, lower the pH to 7.5.

Read more less

Growing Aquatic Plants In the natural state some river systems plants grow particularly well. These are the ones with certain water qualities and constant supplies of nutrients. Water that comes from limestone areas or springs (usually containing high levels of carbonates and/or carbon dioxide) support high levels of growth and plant varieties. Ponds or billabongs that contain rich sediment also support certain aquatic plants, growing in and out of water. The river systems however, that support the type of plants most suited to aquarium application are the ones with sustained levels of inorganic nutrients, one of the most important being iron.   Plant Nutrients in the Aquarium Iron is considered the most important nutrient for aquatic plants. Recommended levels vary between 0.25 and 1.0ppm. Total levels of 2.0ppm may be harmful to both fish and plants. Aquatic plants can only use inorganic nutrients while they exist in a non-oxidized form. This fact presents a major problem when feeding aquatic plants ordinary fertilizers, because water and dissolved oxygen will oxidize certain important elements within hours. Furthermore, some of the nutrients supplied in plant foods, chiefly phosphates and nitrates, are unwanted in an aquarium and would most likely result in an algae problem.   Aquasonic BASIC-GRO and DAILY-GRO have overcome the oxidization problem by specially formulating nutrients that only plants can use, nutrients made for aquatic application.

Read more less

  Normal pH All Fish have an ideal pH range. Some fish, especially Cichlids from Africa’s Rift Lakes, require a higher pH than can be tested with a standard test kit. Certain events, namely biological filtration of an aquarium, tend to reduce the carbonate hardness value and therefore lower the pH. Also, certain influences like carbon dioxide, can affect the reading of the pH value.   Biological Filtration The assimilation of waste by bacteria in the filter of an aquarium is an acidifying process and in time will reduce the carbonate hardness value of the water. As this occurs, the pH value will fall.   pH Adjustment The basis of pH in the African Cichlid aquarium is Carbonate Hardness, also called kH or Alkalinity. This HIGH RANGE pH TEST KIT is best used in conjunction with the Aquasonic CARBONATE HARDNESS TEST KIT. Carbonate Hardness should be maintained over 100ppm, but no more than 260ppm. This will provide stable, high pH, helping your African Cichlids to thrive. Carbonate Hardness is quickly and easily increased using Aquasonic CARBONATE HARDNESS GENERATOR. If the carbonate hardness value of an aquarium is correct, yet pH values are not, then the influence of carbon dioxide should be considered.   Directions for Use Rinse a clean test tube and cap several times in water to be tested. Fill the test tube to the 10mL mark Add 10 drops of pH indicator and swirl Place the test tube on the white background of the colour chart, view vertically with the light behind you. The colour in the test tube is best viewed with natural light. View immediately.    

Read more less

About Phosphates There are two types, Organic and Inorganic. The type we test for in aquaria is the Inorganic type, PO4. All living matter contains phosphorus but unfortunately organic phosphate can only be tested for in laboratories using sophisticated testing equipment.   The Effect of Phosphates In reef aquariums, levels of phosphates above 0.5ppm can adversely affect the growth of both hard and soft corals. It is recommended to keep phosphates at a maximum of 0.25ppm. In both fresh and saltwater aquariums phosphates above 0.5ppm can cause the growth of hair algae, blue green algae and other types of algae, including green water in ponds and lakes. A side affect of phosphate in saltwater aquarium, is the precipitation of calcium. There is no evidence that levels of phosphates affect the health of fish. High levels, say above 20ppm, may affect growth.   Where Phosphate Comes From The sources can be many and varied. Some tap water contains phosphates originating from agricultural run off or added by municipal water authorities to reduce levels of heavy metals. Some phosphates are a bi-product of fish waste or decaying algae. Some aquarium products e.g., pH adjusters, contain some phosphates. Most phosphate, however, comes from uneaten fish food due to over-feeding.   How to Reduce Phosphates The two considerations are: A) to reduce the level already present in the aquarium, use a Phosphate Sponge or similar. B) by changing some water in the aquarium. Take steps to stop the build up in the first place. If the tap water contains phosphates, filter before use with a Phosphate Sponge or use RO water. Do not over feed. Most important in controlling phosphates in any situation is to reduce the levels of waste or debris that may be present in the aquarium gravel or in silt behind rocks, coral etc. Change pre-filter or mechanical filters on a weekly or more frequent basis.   How to Determine Phosphate (as Inorganic Orthophosphate) in Salt or Fresh Water Rinse the clean test tube several times in the water to be tested. Fill the test tube to the 20ml mark with sample to be tested. Add 4 drops of Reagent A. If solution turns red, add Reagent B dropwise until colour disappears. If there is no colour evident after adding Reagent A go to step 4. Add 4 drops of Reagent B and mix. Add 2 drops of Reagent C and mix immediately. Wait one minute but no longer than five minutes after the addition of Reagent C to measure the colour intensity of the sample against the colour chart. Place the test tube on the white background of the colour chart, view vertically with the light behind you. The colour in the test tube is best viewed with natural light.   Note Be sure to cap all reagent bottles tightly. Reagent B is highly acidic and will cause skin irritation. If skin contact does occur wash immediately with cold water. After completion of the test, wash the test tube thoroughly as a previous test could influence the next one.

Read more less

The API® POND 5-IN-1 TEST STRIPS provide accurate results for your pond’s water conditions using a highly precise colour chart for easy-to-read results.   Measured parameters include pH, Nitrite, Nitrate, Carbonate Hardness, and General Hardness. Snap-cap container keeps unused strips protected and dry, maintaining product stability and extending the shelf life of the product.   No separate test vial is required – simply dip a test strip directly into your pond for easy reading of your pond’s levels. Testing your water has never been so simple!

Read more less